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BODRUM
CASTLE
Bodrum Castle was established
between two harbours, on a rocky
peninsula surrounded with sea
at three sides. It is attached
to land from the northern side.
The castle has a rectangular
plan. Its dimensions are 180
x 185 meters. Its highest place
is French towers of which height
above sea level is 47,50 meters.
Other than French tower, there
are four more towers including
English, Italian, German and
Yilanli towers.
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The areas
of the castle at outer
side of the eastern wall
are reinforced with double
castle wall. The chevaliers
strengthened the ramparts
at land side and did not
do the same for sea ramparts
as they believed that
they would be able to
avoid any attack from
the sea side with their
strong navy at sea.
In order to reach the
inner castle, one should
pass seven doors. The
first door of the castle
is at north - west corner.
A ramp road should be
passed near the police
- station in order to
reach the door. At the
beginning of the ramp,
the door stands at the
back of the slope. Thus,
the door is protected
from direct firing of
guns. There is a Greek
inscription on marble
door lento. Jacques Gatineau,
who acted as the commander
in the castle between
1512 - 1513, warned with
this inscription that
the people who made espionage
in the castle would be
punished. And this shows
that the chevaliers did
not trust the people of
the city.
There is a part we called
northern ditch when entered
through inside. And there
is a triple armorial bearing
group at the inner side
of the door.
There are 249 armorial
bearings on the walls
of Bodrum castle. In addition,
16 armorial bearings are
being exhibited in the
garden of the museum.
These armorial bearing
are generally similar
to each other. It is unknown
to whom these bearings
belong to, as the paints
of these bearings, of
which originals are painted,
have disappeared.
There are crosses, vertical
and horizontal bands,
dragon and lion figures
on the armorial bearings.
There are traces of the
paints on some of the
armorial bearings located
on castle towers. Colour
traces are seen on St.
Katerin embossment, on
the way looking towards
French tower, at eastern
wall, on the flag at north
- east upper corner of
French tower.
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The armorial
bearing at the middle
of the triple armorial
bearing group located
at the inner side of the
1st door of the castle
belongs to Jacques Gatineau,
the commander of the castle.
The Latin script below
the armorial bearings
says: "Belief shall
be protected here by Gatineau
on behalf of Catholic
Church". The lion
on the door lento, at
the left side of this
armorial bearing group
belongs to Hellenistic
Period.
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There is a passage
from the wooden bridge,
of which original
is armorial bearing
bridge, to the inclined
stone road. Inside
of the ditch was partially
being filled of water
before the construction
of the harbor. The
aggregate wall at
right side was made
when the castle was
used as a prison.
The building, which
has thick walls and
inclined roof, is
a place for protection
of the guns. The ditch
was made for protection
against the attacks
to come from east
in 1913, as it is
understood from the
armorial bearings
on it. The gun slits
are being seen through
ditch and harbor direction.
They are close to
the sea level in order
to be able to fire
to the water section
of the ships to enter
to the harbor.
Today, the northern
ditch is used as an
area where the Bodrum
Festival and theatre
plays are being held.
The grave seen behind
the ditch, at the
back of the sitting
places belongs to
Rome Period.
At the top of the
2nd door, there is
a triple armorial
bearing group on which
there is a crowned
eagle. There is a
single armorial bearing
at the left side of
the triple armorial
bearing group. An
unused door exists
at left side of this
door. And there are
two armorial bearings
on the door. You may
reach to the courtyard
after passing the
2nd door. There is
a harbor tower at
one side of the courtyard
looking towards the
sea. The entrance
of gun protection
area is also located
here. There is a Greek
inscription on the
door lento concerning
the emperor Hadrianus.
The gun protection
area is still being
used as an art gallery. |
The 3rd door is
a well-protected door.
There are door gate
and oil holes in the
wall for iron plate
movable for up and
down directions. Two
armorial bearings
exist at left side
of the 3rd door. There
are armorial bearings
of the dervish and
Guy de Blanchfort
(1512 - 1513) at right
side. It unknown to
which chevalier the
below crossed armorial
bearing belonged.
One may reach to the
western ditch after
passing this door.
All of the green stones
seen on the castle
walls at right were
brought from Mausoleion. |
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There is a statue
of Roman commander
in the niche of the
harbor tower, at opposite
side of the 4th door.
Such statute bodies
were widespread. Their
heads were being made
separately and when
a new commander came,
the head of the old
commander was being
taken from the body
and replaced with
the new commander's
head.
The 4th door opens
to a vault having
stairs. There are
four armorial bearings
on this door. When
you pass through the
tree - lined road
in the western ditch,
instead of climbing
upstairs from the
4th door, you may
see altars, tombs
and various works
collected from Halikarnassos
and its environs.
The stone wall beginning
from the cistern at
left belongs to Turkish
Castle built in the
middle of XIV. Century.
Later, the chevaliers
raised the walls with
Mausoleion's stones
and enlarged the castle.
The chevaliers did
not use the ditches
as transportation
way; they used to
reach the inner castle
by means of suspension
bridges. The pillar
of the suspension
bridge made of Mausoleion's
green stones can bee
seen on the southern
wall. The wall at
both sides of the
pillar was built when
the castle was used
as a prison. The stone
stairs at the end
of the ditch was also
added to the castle
later. The embossment
on the wall at right
side of the stairs
shows Saint George
killing a dragon.
The original place
of this embossment
is not here. It is
brought from the inner
castle, from the northern
wall of Italian tower.
There are three armorial
bearings below Saint
George figure. When
you climb the stairs,
you see the cross
and united armorial
bearing of Piere d'Aubusson
at the middle of the
door. He worked as
üstad-i azam (the
chief master) in Rhodes
between 1476 and 1503.
He visited Bodrum
Castle many times.
He was awarded by
the pope with the
rank of cardinal helmet
as he imprisoned Cem
Sultan who took refuge
of him. The tasselled
cardinal helmet is
seen on the armorial
bearing. The armorial
bearing is a two-sided
red cross on yellow
ground. There are
two more armorial
bearings other than
this.
The small tower at
right side beyond
the door is the control
tower of suspension
bridge. There is the
monogram of II. Mahmut
on the outer wall
surface of this tower.
Reckoned from the
Hegira 1235 is written
on this monogram.
This monogram is written
on a chevalier armorial
bearing, as it is
understood from the
Malta cross.
In order to enter
the inner castle,
you should turn back
and follow the narrow
road. There is an
armorial bearing on
a high place, on the
castle wall at left
side. A photograph
related with this
armorial bearing is
being exhibited from
the loopholes, which
are closed later.
The Latin inscription
on the 5th door says
"My Master protect
us while sleeping
and rescue while awake.
Nobody can protect
us without your protection".
There is a triple
armorial bearing group
below the inscription.
You may reach to the
southern side of the
castle, when you pass
this door. There are
two castle walls here.
Two tombs are located
across the 7th door,
used as drinking basin
before. There is a
triple armorial bearing
group on 7th floor.
You may enter to the
inner castle by means
of a vaulted corridor.
There is a cistern
under this corridor.
The previous armorial
bearing group was
embroidered on the
entrance of the inner
castle. There are
14 cisterns in the
inner castle and under
the chapel. The necessary
water was obtained
from these cisterns
when the castle was
besieged. Some of
these cisterns are
still being used.
It is possible to
see all trees and
flowers of archaic
world and the region
in the inner courtyard.
One of these trees
is bay - tree. (Daphne
in Greek and Laurus
in Latin language).
The tree known as
oleander in Anatolia
ornaments the castle
with its flowers and
leaves which do not
fall in summer and
winter. There are
plane trees in the
middle of the courtyard
of which shadows are
found healthy by the
kings and aristocrats.
Among the trees grown
in the region, there
are olive trees which
carry great importance
in archaic world and
myrtles which are
used in many ceremonies.
Myrtle was the holy
tree of Aphrodite.
Pigeon among the birds
and rose among the
flowers were vowed
to Aphrodite. To meet
with the salutation
of pigeons and to
smell the roses may
remind Aphrodite to
the visitors of the
castle. Mandrake is
a plan being exhausted.
For this reason, this
plant is being grown
in the castle with
a great care. This
plant is known to
be used for anesthesia.
It is possible to
see any kind of flower
and trees suitable
for Mediterranean
climate including
silk cloves blooming
the most beautiful
purple in summer,
geranium with various
colors, various cactuses,
begonias and Cyprus
acacia, pines, pomegranate
trees and mulberry
trees. |
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BRONZE AGE SHIPWRECKS
The hall consists
of three sections.
Just inside the entry,
finds from the Cape
Gelidonya (late 13
th century BC) and
Seytan Deresi (16
th Century B.C) shipwrecks
are exhibited.
On the left side
of this room are
artifacts gathered
by the first scientific
shipwreck excavation
in the world, at
Cape Gelidonya.
The site of the
wreck was shown
to the archaologists
by Captain Kemal
Aras, a Bodrum sponge
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boat owner. The
shipwreck was excavated
in 1960 under the
direction of George
F.Bass. This was
a Syrian merchant's
trading vessel.
The artifacts excavated
from the wreck shed
light on the international
relations of the
period.
With the copper
ingots loaded in
Cyprus, the vessel
sank at Besadalar
(Five Islands),
opposite Cape Gelidonya
between Finike and
Antalya.
Captain's Log
Book;
"From Syria,
we started our voyage
through the eastern
Mediterranean in
my 13-14 meter long
vessel. We stopped
at Cyprus to get
approximately one
ton of metal cargo.
Copper ingots shaped
like dried ox-hides
were wrapped in
mats and carefully
loaded on board.
We put bronze tools
and scrap metal
in baskets with
shrubs and branches
beneath to protect
our hull. Now, five
of the crew are
sitting at the stern,
with an oil lamp
for light. I am
on deck getting
myself ready for
trading at one of
the harbors we will
approach in a couple
of hours. Tied to
my wrist is a cylindrical
stone seal from
my father that I
use for formal stamps.
Perhaps my son will
one day use this
seal. My sailors
carry scarabs for
good luck. They
play at knuckle
bones in spare moments
during this long
voyage. Whetstones
are used to sharpen
the tools which
will be offered
for sale.
By following the
land, we are heading
for Cape Gelidonya
on the Anatolian
shore, watching
the west current
and the wind. In
a few hours we will
reach Phoenikus
(Finike) and get
some drinking water.
We have to pass
first through Bes
Adalar (Five Islands),
which is a very
dangerous place
for sailors."
As the ship passed
between the two
islands nearest
the mainland, due
to the strong current
it hit the pinnacle
of rock that nears
the surface of the
sea. The vessel
sant to a depth
of 26-28 meters,
and Cape Gelidonya
became the grave
of one more vessel.
The large jars (pithoi)
and amphoras at
the right side of
the first room were
shown to the Institute
of Nautical Archaeology
(I.N.A) by sponge
diver Cumhur Ilik.
The wreck was excavated
in 1975 by the I.N.A.
team of Prof. Dr.
George F. Bass,
who dates the pottery
to the 16 th century
BC.
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Captain's Log
Book;
"We started sailing
after loading my small
boat with six pithoi
and different types
of amphoras, of a
uniformly coarse brown
fabric, from a small
ceramic workshop next
to Gökova Bay. We
were taking them to
a near-by harbor.
There were strong
winds as we sailed
in Gökova Bay. When
we reached Seytan
Deresi (Devil Creek),
a water spout turned
my boat upside down.
The hull spilled out
its cargo and floated
away." |
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The cargo remained
in the sand on the
bottom of the sea
at a depth of 33 meters
until it was excavated
by the Institute of
Nautical Archaeology.
In the second hall,
the vessel that sank
at Uluburun (Great
Cape) is shown at
harbor. The remains
of the ship are shown
under water as they
were found. This wreck
was discovered in
1982 by Mehmet Çakir,
a sponge diver from
Bodrum. The scientific
investigation of the
wreck was begun in
October 1982 by a
team led by Bodrum
Museum Director T.
Oguz Alpözen.
The site was excavated
between 1984 and 1994,
first by Dr. George
F. Bass and then by
Dr. Cemal Pulak, for
the Institute of Nautical
Archaeology at Texas
A&M Universty.
Captain's Log Book;
"...as Captain
of this ship, I am
proud that my king
has entrusted to me
the royal treasures
in our cargo hold;
delicate gold and
silver pendants, bracelets
and rings from the
jewellers of Canaan
and Egypt, rare ebony
log transported from
tropical Africa, amber
beads from lands so
far to the north that
few men known the
source, and the teeth
of elephants and hip-popotamuses
hunted along the shores
of my own country.
"Shall I drink
a toast with this
great golden goblet?"
After leaving the
coast of Syria behind
us, we sail westward
to Cyprus for additional
cargo. Porters brought
on board 365 ingots
of pure copper, smelted
from the ore of the
island's famed mines.
In all the weigh ten
tons.
"Mixed with a
ton of tin ingots
already on my ship,
this copper will make
enough bronze to outfit
an entire army! In
thanking his gods
for delivery of this
wealth, the king who
receives it will surely
burn as incense some
of the resin my ship
is carrying in a hundred
Canaanite jars. But
I am instructed not
to tell you the name
of the king to whom
I am to deliver this
wealth even my crew
does not know our
destination. They
know only that we
continue to sail westward.
I have enstrusted
the safety of our
voyage to our own
patron goddess. We
carry her gold-covered
bronze figure at the
bow of the ship. In
celebrating her magnificence,
my crew dance to the
sound of the bronze
cymbals, ivory trumpet,
and lutes of tortoise-shell
we carry.
We stop for the night
at the entrance to
the huge bay that
cuts into the land
where the Hittites
live. We will hug
the coast of the bay
till we round the
southern-most point
of this land. But
now some of my sailors
are putting out their
fishing nets. The
Mycenaean envoy who
accompanies us pours
wine from his own
pitcher into his own
cup. I will weigh
carefully anything
he sells with the
animal-shaped weights
I carry with me: one
of them is the finest
ever seen in my time.
Now the sun is rising
and my men hoist the
huge stone anchor
that has held us firmly
through the night.
The wind is rising,
but our stout hull,
its cedar planks joined
tightly together,
will carry us safely
through the waves.
I do not fear pirates,
as we are well armed
with swords, daggers,
spears, stone maces
and bows and arrows.
Now we must round
the southernmost protrusion
of land, the Great
Point, but the wind
is suddenly coming
from the south. My
helmsman tries to
turn us away from
the sheer cliff ahead.
We must furl our sail.
It is too late. We
have struck the cliff.
The ship and all on
board are sinking
in 33 fathoms of water.
We have finally reached
land, but it is not
our original destination.
For bringing my cargo
to you, I would like
to thank the Institute
of Nautical Archaeology
(I.N.A) at Texas A&M
University. I also
wish to thank Minister
of Culture, M.Istemihan
Talay, the undersecretary,
Fikret Nesip Üçcan,
who asked a scenario
to be written around
the artifacts, the
Director of the General
Directorate of Monuments
and Museums, Dr. Alpay
Pasinli; and the Director
of the Center of Administration
of Circulating Capital
Funds of the Ministry
of Culture, Yemlihan
Atalay. Welcome to
all." |
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