The ancient city, 48km east
of Antalya, is most famous for its theatre, probably the best
preserved in Asia Minor. It is still in use today, and stages
the annual Aspendos Opera and Ballet Festival every summer.
According to Greek legend, the city was founded by Argive
colonists who, under the leadership of the hero Mopsos, came
to Pamphylia after the Trojan War. Aspendos was one of the first
cities in the region to strike coinage under its own name. On
these silver staters dated to the fifth and fourth century B.C.,
however, the name of the city is written es Estwediiys in the
local script.
A late eighth century B.C. bilingual
inscription carved in both Hittite hieroglyphs and
the Phoenician alphabet discovered in the 1947 excavation
of Karatepe near Adana, states that Asitawada, the
king of Danunum (Adana), founded a city called Azitawadda,
a derivation of his own name, and that he was a member
of the Muksas, or Mopsus, dynasty. The striking similarity
between the names "Estwediiys" and "azitawaddi"
suggests the
possibility that Aspendos was the city
this king founded.
Aspendos did not play an important role in antiquity
as a political force. Its political history during the
colonization period corresponded to the currents of
the Pamphylian region. Within this trend, after the
colonial period, it remained for a time under Lycian
hegemony. In 546 B.C. it came under Persian domination.
The face that the city continued to mint coins in its
own name, however, indicates that it had a great deal
of freedom even under the Persians.
In 467 B.C. the statesman and military
commander Cimon, and his fleet of 200 ships, destroyed
the Persian navy based at the mouth of the river Eurymedon
in a surprise attack. In order to crush to Persian
land forces, he tricked the Persians by sending his
best fighters to shore wearing the garments of the
hostages he had seized earlier. When they saw these
men, the Persians thought that they were compatriots
freed by the enemy and arranged festivities in celebration.
Taking advantage of this, Cimon landed
and annihilated the Persians. Aspendos then became a
member of the Attic-Delos Maritime league.
The Persians captured the city again in 411 B.C. and
used it as a base. In 389 B.C. the commander of Athens,
in an effort to regain some of the prestige that city
had lost in the Peloponnesian Wars, anchored off the
coast of Aspendos in an effort to secure its surrender.
Hoping to avoid a new war, the people of Aspendos collected
money among themselves and gave it to the commander,
entreating him to retreat without causing any damage.
Even though he took the money, he had his men trample
all the crops in the fields. Enraged, the Aspendians
stabbed and killed the Athenian commander in his tent.
When Alexander the Great marched into Aspendos in 333
B.C. after capturing Perge, the citizens sent envoys
to him to request that he would not establish that he
be given the taxes and horses that they had formerly
paid as tribute to the Persian king. After reaching
this agreement. Alexander went to Side, leaving a garrison
there on the city's surrender. Going back through Sillyon,
he learned that the Aspendians had failed to ratify
the agreement their envoys had proposed and were preparing
to defend themselves. Alexander marched to the city
immediately. When they saw Alexander returning with
his troops, the Aspendians, who had retreated to their
acropolis, again sent envoys to sue for peace. This
time, however, they had to agree to very harsh terms;
a Macedonian garrison would remain in the city and 100
gold talents as well as 4.000 horses would be given
in tax annually.
During the wars that followed the death of Alexander,
the city came alternately under the control of the Ptolemies
and the Seleucids, later falling into the hands of the
Kingdom of Pergamum, to which it remained bound until
133 B.C.
From Cicero's presentation of the
case before the Roman senate, we know that in 79 B.C.
Gaius Verres, the questor of Cilicia, pillaged Aspendos
just as he had Perge. Verres, right in front of the
citizens, took statues from the temples and squares
and had them loaded into carts. He even had Aspendos
famous statue of a harpist set up in his own home.
Aspendos, like most of the other Pamphylian cities,
reached its height in the second and third centuries
A.D. Most of the monumental architecture
still visible here today dates to this golden age. Although
the city was not on the coast, the river Eurymedon,
on whose banks it was situated, allowed ships to reach
it. This accessibility, together with the productive
plain and the thickly forested mountains that lay behind
Aspendos, were major factors in its development. Gold
and silver embroidered tapestries woven in the city,
furniture and figurines made from the wood of lemon
trees, salt obtained from nearby Lake Capria, wine,
and especially the famous horses of Aspendos were its
foremost exports. Although they were renowned as grape
growers and wine merchants, they did not offer wine
to their gods in their religious rites. They explained
this omission by saying that if wine were reserved for
the gods, birds would not have the courage to eat grapes.
Few Aspendians made a name for themselves in history.
Andromachos was a famous military commander in his day
and was also the governor of Phoenicia and Syria. Little
is known of the work of the native philosopher Diodorus,
but that he wore the long hair, dirty clothes, and bare
feet of the Cynics, which suggests he was influenced
by Pythagorus.
At the beginning of the thirteenth century, Aspendos
began to bear the imprint of settlement by the Seljuk
Turks, especially during the reign of Alaeddin Keykubat
I, when the theatre was thoroughly restored, embellished
in Seljuk style with elegant tiles, and used as a palace.
At the end of the road that turns
off the Antalya -Alanya highway, we come to the most
magnificent, as well as functionally the best resolved
and most complete example of a Roman theatre. The
building, faithful to the Greek tradition, is partially
built into the slope of a hill. Today visitors enter
the stage building via a door opened in the facade
during a much later period. The original entrances,
however, are the vaulted paradoses at both ends of
the stage building.
The cavea is semicircular in shape and
divided in two by a large diazoma. There are 21 tiers
of seats above and 20 below. To provide ease of circulation
so that the spectators could reach their seats without
difficulty, radiating stairways were built, 10 in the
lower level starting at the orchestra and 21 in the
upper beginning at the diazoma. A wide gallery consisting
of 59 arches and thought to have been built at a later
date, goes from one end of the upper cavea to the other.
From an architectural point of view, the diazoma's vaulted
gallery acts as a substructure supporting the upper
cavea. As a general rule of protocol, the private boxes
above the entrances on both sides of the cavea were
reserved for the Imperial family and the vestal virgins.
Beginning from the orchestra and going up, the first
row of seats belonged to senators, judges, and ambassadors,
while the second was reserved for other notables of
the city. The remaining sections were open to all the
citizens. The women usually sat on the upper rows under
the gallery. From the names carved on certain seats
in the upper cavea, it is clear that these too were
reserved. Although it is impossible to determine the
exact seating capacity of the theatre, it is said to
have seated between 10,000 and 12,000 people. In recent
years, concerts given in the theatre as part of the
Antalya Film and Art Festival, have shown that as many
as 20,000 spectators can be crowded into the seating
area.
Without doubt the Aspendos theatre's most striking component
is the stage building. On the lower floor of this two-storey
structure, which is built of conglomerate rock, were
five doors providing the actors entrance to the stage.
The large door at the centre was known as the porta
regia, and the two smaller ones on either side as the
porta hospitales. The small doors at orchestra level
belong to long corridors leading to the areas where
the wild animals were kept. From surviving fragments
it appears that sculptural works were placed in niches
and aedicula under triangular and semicircular pediments.
In the pediment at the centre of
the colonnaded upper floor is a relief of Dionysos,
the god of wine and the founder and patron of theatres.
Red zigzag motifs against white plaster, visible on
some portions of the stage building, date to the Seljuk
period. The top of the stage building is covered with
a highly ornamented wooden roof.
The theatre at Aspendos is also famous for its magnificent
accoustics. Even the slightest sound made at the centre
of the orchestra can be easily hear as far as the
uppermost galleries. Anatolia's patricians, who lived
in the midst of a rich cultural heritage, created
stories connected with the cities and monuments around
them.
One of these tales which has been
passed down from generation to generation is about
Aspendos' theatre. The king of Aspendos proclaimed
that he would hold a contest to see what man could
render the greatest service to the city; the winner
would marry the king's daughter. Hearing this, the
artisans of the city began to work at high speed.
At last, when the day of the decision came and the
king had examined all their efforts one by one, he
designated two candidates. The first of them had succeeded
in setting up a system that enabled water to be brought
to the city from great distances via aqueducts. The
second built the theatre. Just as the king was on
the point of deciding in favour of the first candidate,
he was asked to have one more look at the theatre.
While he was wandering about in the upper galleries,
a deep voice from an unknown source out saying again
and again, "The king's daughter must be given
to me" . In astonishment the king looked around
for the owner of the voice but could find no one.
It was, of course, the architect himself, proud of
the accoustical masterpiece he had created, who was
speaking in a low voice from the stage. In the end,
it was the architect who won the beautiful girl and
the wedding ceremony took place in the theatre.
We know from an inscription in the southern parados
that the theatre was constructed during the reign
of the Emperor Marcus Aurelius (161-180 A.D.) by the
architect Zeno, the son of an Aspendian named Theodoros.
According to the inscription, the people of Aspendos,
out of admiration for Zeno, awarded him a large garden
beside the stadium. Greek and Latin inscriptions above
the entrances on both sides of the stage building
tell us that, two brothers named Curtius Crispinus
and Curtius Auspicatus commissioned the building and
dedicated it to the gods and the Imperial family.
No fee was charged for putting on a performance in
the theatre. A portion of the necessary production
costs were covered by civic institutions, but after
the performance, part of the profits was turned over
to these organizations. Generally one had to pay a
fee or buy tickets to gain entry to plays or competitions.
Tickets were made of metal, ivory, bone, or in most
cases, fired clay, with a picture on one side and
a row and seat number on the other.
Aspendos' other principal remains
are above the acropolis, behind the theatre. The first
building one comes to on the acropolis, which is reached
via a footpath starting alongside the theatre, is
a basilica measuring 27x105 metres. The basilica is
an architectural from invented by the Romans. Roman
basilicas were used for a wide variety of purposes,
but these were all concerned with public affairs.
Markets and law courts were set up in buildings.
The basilica plan consists of a large
central hall surrounded by smaller chambers. The central
hall is separated from those at the sides by columns
and its roof is higher. Inside the basilica is a tribunal.
During the Byzantine era the building underwent major
alterations and lost much of its original character.
South of the basilica and bounded on three sides by
houses, is the agora, the centre of the city's commercial,
social, and political activities. A little further to
the west are twelve shops of equal size all in a line
at the rear of a stoa.
North of the agora is a nymphaeum of which only the
front wall remains standing. Measuring 32.5 m. in width
by 15 m. in height, this two-level facade has five niches
at each level. The middle niche in the lower level is
larger than the others and is thought have been used
as a door. It is clear from the marble bases at the
foot of the wall that the building originally had a
colonnaded facade.
Behind the nymphaeum is a building of unusual plan,
either an odeon or a bouleuterion where council members
met.
Another of Aspendos' remains that
should not be missed is its aqueduct. This one kilometre-long
series of arches which brought water to the city from
the mountains at the north, represents an extraordinary
feat of engineering and is one of the rare examples
surviving antiquity. The water was brought from its
source in a channel formed by hollowed stone blocks
on top of 15 metre-high arches. Near both ends of
the aqueduct the water
was collected in towers some 30 metres
high, which was distributed to the city.
An inscription found in Aspendos tells us that a certain
Tiberius Claudius Italicus had the aqueduct built, and
presented it to the city. Its architectural features
and construction techniques date it to the middle of
the second century A.D.